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Businessmen & Bottles

Businessmen & Bottles


Author: Colman Andrews
photograph by Christopher Hirsheimer

François Faiveley, proprietor of the 173-year-old Maison Joseph Faiveley—which both produces wines and blends and bottles them as a négociant (and which calls itself “le plus important domaine viticole de Bourgogne”)—likes to say that his delicately delicious Corton-Charlemagne Sous le Bois owes its quality to the rabbits. He is an “ecologist”, he explains, and, as such, can’t bear to shoot or trap the furry little creatures who overrun the tiny hillside plot where the grapes are grown. The rabbits repay his kindness by eating fully half the grapes, reducing the yield and thus concentrating more flavor in the grapes that remain.

Football Betting Spread It’s a charming story. But when I repeat it to my friend Tim Johnston, a SAVEUR consulting editor and proprietor of Juvenile’s wine bar in Paris—and a man who knows wine about as well as anybody I’ve ever met—he replies, “That just shows you how stupid the Burgundians are: They don’t realize that the rabbits eat all the best grapes!”

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Commodity Spread Trading As you may be able to intuit from that remark, Johnston is not a great fan of burgundy. Neither am I, frankly—or at least I wasn’t until I started spending serious time in the region itself and sampling, in situ, many of its finest bottles, both sacred and profane. My problem (and Johnston’s, too, I would imagine) is basically one of disappointed expectations. The burgundies I’ve bought over the years in America are so very rarely what I want, hope, or have every right to expect them to be—especially considering their reputation and their price. The vineyards of Burgundy are by no means the oldest in France (that honor probably goes to those of Bellet, near Nice), but Gregory of Tours praised Burgundian vintages as early as the sixth century, and by the ninth century, according to an exhibit in the Musée du Vin de Bourgogne in Beaune, vines here “already occupied the principal regions where they would later reach their apogee.”

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Nfl Betting Spread Burgundy is almost universally considered one of the world’s great wine-producing regions. Its white wines, most of them made from chardonnay, have long been considered (along with Germany’s rieslings) the noblest of whites—and were for decades the paradigm that vintners in California and elsewhere in the world sought to emulate with their own chardonnay-based wines. Its reds, made primarily from pinot noir, have been legendary for centuries, inspiring poetry and passion alike. The inattentive or unlucky buyer of burgundies today, however, is likely to wonder what all the fuss is about. It is perfectly possible to find a very pleasant minor white or red from the region for $15 or $20 (see the “Secret Wines of Burgundy” boxes throughout this special issue). It sometimes happens that even a $60 or $80 or $100 bottle betrays such dazzling intensity of flavor and aroma that its price seems irrelevant. But it’s also far too easy to pay $200 or more (sometimes much more) for a bottle with a famous label—and end up with a mouthful of thin, sour, dirty-tasting nonsense.

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Advanced Commodity Spread Why? Overproduction, for one thing. Many Burgundian vignerons are shrewd businessmen—instead of the simple farmers they sometimes pretend to be—and at least some of them try to squeeze as much wine as possible out of their little plots of blue-chip vineyard land through overfertilization and undercropping. Careless or misguided practices in the winery can be another factor: As one well-known producer walked out of a restaurant near Chalon-sur-Saône one evening, the proprietress said, “He comes here often, but I don’t buy his wines.” She shook her head. “Good vineyards, bad winemaker.”

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Betting Exchange Spread Especially with burgundies sold outside of France, there is another potential problem: They can be delicate, temperamental wines, and they don’t take

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Stock Spread Trading kindly to mistreatment. “I think 75 percent of the problems people have with burgundy are problems of how the wine has been transported and stored,” says Geraldine Tashjian, co-owner of the Burgundy Wine Company, a New York wine shop that specializes in wines of the region. That may well be true. I’ve certainly encountered much better burgundies in France than I have here—and they’re sometimes the same wines.

Online Spread Betting But things may be looking up. As Becky Wasserman (see facing page) puts it, “Burgundy used to be insular, as rural areas usually are. Nobody tasted wines anywhere but their own cellars. Suddenly, you had a new generation who went to viticultural school, did stages in California, and started tasting regularly at each other’s estates. At the same time, they stopped fertilizing their vines and now do very little chaptalization [the addition of sugar to must to raise alcohol levels]. Their wines are better than ever. They’re also wonderful people. If you ever get the blues, all you have to do is go over and see one of them.” We find out what she means when Étienne and Marielle Grivot invite us to lunch one drizzly Sunday at their house at Domaine Jean Grivot, the family’s acclaimed winery in Vosne-Romanée. Wine and food go together all over the world, of course, and especially all over France—but for some reason they seem to be particularly intimately acquainted in Burgundy, and we are to enjoy an unpretentious but immensely satisfying marriage of the two on this occasion.

Complete Guide Spread Trading Besides a chance to taste some of the domaine’s superb vintages, we have been promised good home cooking, quickly and simply done. “We like very much good things that we can prepare fast,” explains Étienne’s wife, Marielle (who is the daughter of Simon Bize, a respected pro-

Betting Horse Racing Spread ducer in Savigny-lès-Beaune), “because we’re very busy and we don’t have a lot of time to spend in the kitchen.”

Low Spread Forex Trading Still, that kitchen doesn’t seem like a bad place to spend time. It gives onto a balcony overlooking a large vegetable garden, with a vast expanse of vineyards in the background. “That’s our Vosne-Romanée property just beyond the garden,” says Éti-enne, pointing out the window. Also visible, he adds, are La Tâche, Richebourg, and Romanée-Conti; it is a multi-million-dollar view. He then pours us icy glasses of what he calls “a wine that doesn’t exist”—a rich, oaky ’97 white, labeled simply Bourgogne Blanc. “This is in effect a white vosne-romanée,” he explains, “but the appellation doesn’t admit chardonnay. I make a bit of it to amuse myself.” Marielle, meanwhile, starts to prepare our meal, which will revolve around pintade au chou, or guinea fowl with cabbage.

Sport Spread Betting Étienne suddenly exclaims, “We forgot the potatoes!” This means not a trip to the market, but a climb down the wrought-iron staircase from terrace to garden to dig new potatoes out of the moist, sandy earth. “Far too many people eat and drink without tasting,” says Étienne. “If you take the time to taste, you realize that simple food like this has an important role.”

Trading Spread And Seasonals When we sit down to eat, Étienne brings out the big guns: magnums of his ’92 echézeaux, which is soft but potent, with

Arbitrage Spread Trading a gorgeous, beautifully developed nose and a long finish that seems to positively illuminate the palate; and his ’69 clos de vougeot, still unexpectedly vibrant and fresh, but with a concentration of flavor that makes me think of just-crushed ripe summer blackberries.

Betting Guide Insider Sports These are not simple wines, but they compliment the food superbly. The clos de vougeot in particular is both tamed and made to seem all the more glorious by the tart cabbage, earthy potatoes, and juicy guinea fowl.

Betting Spread Successful Hey Tim, maybe these Burgundians aren’t so stupid after all.

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